2nd Annual Texas Willys Meet

Ramsey Power Take Off (PTO) PT2-F

Rebuild Guide

I bought this PTO during the 2000 Texas Willys Meet.  I'm a sucker for a good deal and this looked like one I just couldn't pass up. Did I need a PTO? Nope. Did I want one? You bet I did.  What would I do with it?  Take it apart to see how it worked and write another one of these silly web pages of course.  :-)

This particular model is a PT2-F and it is used for Rear Driven PTO devices. I guess when I'm done with it I'll put it up for sale.  What I'm really after is a front and rear PTO that I can run a winch off of.

   The PTO was in pretty good shape.  All it really needed was some tender loving care to get it ready to run again.  Here's the case of the PTO after I took it apart.  It was dirty, corroded and caked with paint but overall it was in pretty good condition.

Most of the parts were in very good condition.   They just needed a good cleaning and reassembly.  Here's how to take it apart.

Disassembly

1.  Remove the four screws that hold the Shift Lever Covers in place.

2.  Slide the 2 covers and seal over the Shift Lever to remove them.

3.  Pull the shift lever out of the PTO.  If there is a lot of corrosion in there you may have to pull hard and wiggle it back and forth to get it out.  Be careful, there is a small bar that fits though the shift lever that may fall out.

4.  Slide the Engagement Sleeve and Shift Fork & Rod Assembly out of the PTO.  Caution: There is a spring loaded detent ball under the Shift Fork Rod Assembly.  It may pop out or it may stay in place. Just be careful that it doesn't hit you or get lost.  Mine was missing these parts. The ones from a T-90 Shift Assembly will fit this PTO just fine.

5. Wrap either the Gear Shaft or Companion Flange with a heavy rag and lock it in a vice.  If you don't use the rag the jaws of the vice will mar the surface of the parts.

6.  Remove the cotter pin, Shaft Nut and Washer.

7. Remove the Companion Flange.  Mine came right off but you may need to use a pulley puller to get it off.

8.  Using a brass hammer or brass drift, drive the Gear Shaft from the threaded end, out the other end of the PTO Housing.  Do not use steel to drive the Gear Shaft out or you will damage the threads.

9.  Use a long wooden dowel rod or long brass rod, drive the front Main Bearing from the case.  Move from side to side while driving it out so you don't jam it in the case.

10.  Remove the Spacer from the case.

11.  Use a seal puller to remove the rear Oil Seal.

12.  Use the same rod or dowel that you used in step 9. to drive the rear Main Bearing from the case.

Inspection

1. Inspect the Gear Shaft for chipped teeth, cracks, rust, and damaged threads.  Insure it is not bent.

2. Inspect the Shaft Nut for stripped threads or damaged sides.

3.  Inspect the Shaft Washer to insure it has not been bent.  If it appears to be concave or convex you should replace it.

4.  The shift cover plate screws should probably be replaced.  It's better to replace them now than trying to get a broken screw back out later.

5. The oil seal should be replaced with a new one.   The inside diameter should be 1 9/16" and the outside diameter should be 2 1/2".  This size should be easy to find.  The Federal Mogal part number for a real nice double lipped oil seal is 473229.  Mine cost me $7.00.

6. The Shift Fork & Rod is one complete assembly.  Inspect it for nicks or wear in the rod and heavy wear on the fork.   A good fork should measure around 0.275" thick.

7. Inspect the groove in the Engagement Sleeve for excess wear.   The width of the groove should be about 0.280"  That gives you a clearance with the fork in the groove of between 0.003" and 0.010.  Anything more or less than that and I'd start getting nervous.  Also inspect the teeth inside the sleeve for chips and gouges.  Fit the sleeve on the Gear Shaft to make sure it slides easily.  Mine fits a little loose on there but it shows not sign of wear so I'm sure it's ok.

8.  The bearings really should be ok unless the PTO was run low on oil or used a whole lot. Think about it, most PTOs see very little use, and when they do see use, it's usually at low RPMs. The bearing number is 205S.  If the bearing makes a noise when you spin it, or the center wobbles then I suggest you buy new ones.  Otherwise I'd reuse them. Having said that, my bearings had been a little rusty so I went down today to Pervise Bearing looking for new ones.  I had called Napa and they gave me a price of $47 each.  Ouch!  Anyway as I said I took them down to Pervise and they looked them up.  It was $4 cheaper to buy sealed bearings than it was to buy open bearings so I bought them for $9.78 each.  All I had to do was pop out the seals.  I decided to leave the rear bearing sealed.  I figure the PTO is much less likely to leak that way.  Anyway the MRC brand part number for the new bearing was 205-SFF/H201.  Here are the two new bearings.  The one on the left is the front bearing after I removed the seal.

9.  The companion flange should be inspected for nicks, chips and bends.  Also, carefully polish the area the oil seal will ride on.  If you have a deep groove from the oil seal then you may need to have it machined or resurfaced.  You should polish this area to a mirror shin if possible.  Any blemish will cause an oil leak.

10. The Housing should be carefully checked for cracks.   This is not a place for a weak part.  I do not recommend trying to repair a cracked case unless the crack is in a non-structural area.

11. The Spacer is nothing more than a precise length of pipe that keeps the bearings from preloading the case when the Shaft Nut is tightened.   Clean it up good and it should be ok.

12. The Shifter Detent Spring is about the same size as the one in the T-90 shift tower so I used that one.  My old one was found crushed inside the case instead of in it's hole.  I presume this was done during some prior maintenance. Tom Jacoby has informed me that these springs can be found in most Ace Hardware Stores by matching it up with their spring display board.

13.  The Shifter Detent Ball should be inspected for scoring.  If scored, replace with 5/16" T-90 detent ball.  Tom also says you can find this ball bearing at the Ace hardware Stores.

14. The Shift Lever should be straight and should slide easily into the groove in the Shift Rod.  The Lever has a short steel rod that slides through it.  Check the rod and shifter to ensure they are not too worn.  I've found that a little wear will be ok but they should fit pretty well together.  If needed, you could drill out the shifter hole, install a bushing and a new steel rod.   I noticed today upon careful inspection of the Shift Lever that the top 1/2" of it had been broken off and brazed bak on.   It was done well so I'm going to leave it alone.

15. The bottom shifter plate should be straight without tears or cracks.  Its purpose is to hold the steel rod and shifter in place. The middle plate in the picture is the bottom plate.  If you look carefully you will see two small dents in the plate that were caused by the steel rod on the shifter.  You should use a hammer to gently tap these dents back down flat if yours has them.

16.  The Top shifter plate should also be inspected for dents, cracks and chips.  Its purpose it to hold the shifter seal in place.

17.  The shifter seal is a horse hair or rope type seal.   I will try to make a new one to go in the place of the old seal.

Assembly

1. Grease and install the Front Bearing into the Housing.

2.  Place the Spacer inside the Housing.

3.  Grease and install the Rear Bearing into the Housing.

4.  Apply a small amount of RTV type sealer around the outside edge of the Rear Oil Seal and install it. Put a small amount of grease around the inside lip of the oil seal.

5. Grease and install the Gear Shaft into the Housing from the front.  Note: Do not get grease on the Gear Shaft splines.

6.  Carefully apply RTV Sealant to the splines on the Gear Shaft and to the splines inside the rear Companion Flange.  Also apply a small amount of grease to the surface area where the oil seal will ride.

7.  Install the Companion Flange, Washer and Nut and torque to 80 foot pounds.  You will need to use the rag again to wrap around the Gear Shaft or Companion Flange before you clamp it in the vise to torque the nut.

8. Install the cotter pin.   If the holes do not align for the cotter pin, tighten the nut until they do. Do not loosen the nut to align the holes.

9.  Install the Shifter Detent Spring and Ball in the hole directly under the where the shift rod rides. 

10.  Use a 1/4" drive ratchet extension to hold the ball down while you slide the Shift Fork and Rod assembly into the hole.  Be very careful that the extension does not slip or the ball could hit you or get lost.  Only slide the Rod in far enough to cover the ball and rotate the rod so that the groove that the Shift Lever fits into does not catch on the ball.

11.  Slide the Engagement Sleeve onto the Shift Fork and then carefully slide the rod in while aligning the gear teeth.  You can now slide the Shift Fork & Rod assembly all the way in.

12. Install the steel rod into the Shifter Lever and install the Shift Lever into the Housing.  Make sure the end of the lever fits into the groove in the rod. 

13.  Install the Bottom Shift Cover, Seal, Top Cover and install the four cover screws.

14.  Shift the lever backwards and forwards to ensure that it operates properly and rotate the Gear Shaft to ensure that it turns freely.  You now have a freshly rebuilt PTO.

Tom Jacoby was kind enough to furnish us with an Illustrated Parts Breakdown and some pictures of the Ramsey PT-1.  They can be seen at:

http://www.willystech.com/wt/pto/ramseypt2f/Jacoby

Here's some more info Tom has added on the PT-1.  

"The NAPA part number cross reference for the Ramsey PT-1 is:

The only thing I'm not completely sure about is that I may have gotten the NAPA part numbers reversed for the bearings. On the PT-1 it makes no difference, since that PTO takes two of each. I think I have an extra bearing #135 in my parts box; when I find it I'll confirm the NAPA part number.

Like the rest of my Willys, the PTO drive was also undergone surgery by Dr. Frankenstein, with an interesting array of unusual fasteners and such to close the wounds. Too bad the case isn't made of steel, as the aluminum scarred badly. Guess the good doctor did not have a Sears Hardware store nearby.

Tom"

I sold my PT2-F on Ebay sometime around 2001 and used the proceeds to purchase a PT-1 that needs to be rebuilt.  If I ever get around to doing it, I will post the page for all to see.

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